14 September 2010

You Clawed Your Way To The Top, I Don't Care If You're A Flop

September 11th, 2010 (cont)


ADAM


  
  
  
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Christian Cota


  
  
  
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Tess Giberson


Loved Tess Giberson this season; she turned out a collection that was quite minimal in its essentials, and despite being very rock and roll, held on to a feminine side that softened the tone of it a bit. Like Ohne Titel, black, white, and blue were the order of the day, though greys popped up as well. Apparently the inspiration was the word 'shift' (which was also, incidentally, the name of the collection); essentially, Giberson went about looking for different interpretations of the word embodied in dress. I smell commercial success, personally; can't wait to see what she shows in March.


  
  
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Prabal Gurung


Gurung brings us both eye popping colour and sophisticated minimalism this season. Opening looks consisted of graphic prints incorporating bright yellow, blue, orange, and red, while the lead up to show closers worked with these same colours more solidly. The inbetweeners, which made up the majority of the collection, were primarily white and black, though pink and blue popped up a few times in prints and solids. There seemed to be a bit of a military influence through the collection at times, which was off set by the metallics and ruffles that brought a more feminine touch. For me, it was all about the contrasts: colour vs b&w, masculinity vs femininity, red carpet vs corporate.


  
  
  
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A Détacher


I'm not sure what it is, but for the first time at New York Fashion Week, I can say I'm not impressed. Mona Kowalska just didn't bring it this season. I didn't mind what she had for fall back in March, but this summer collection is just... I don't know, drab? There's taupes and greys and whites, and somehow colours like blue, green, and yellow seemed dulled. I'm saying this and knowing all the while that come spring the collection will probably sellout everywhere, and I'll have to eat my words. Maybe I will have warmed up to it by then. But right now, I just... No. (The ribbon lace was an interesting touch. But not a saving grace for me.)


  
  
  
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Gary Graham


I found Graham's collection interesting. As detailed as the clothes were at Gary Graham, my eyes kept being drawn to the shoes this season. For the longest time, I couldn't tell what they were reminding me of, but then came the breeches in look 16, and I snapped to. Perhaps this was what had me thinking of Enlightenment era France and shipwrights. A couple looks also incorporated headscarves, which contributed to the historical theme in my mind. Barring these preliminary observations, the collection included military and safari inspirations, and a few prints. One other thing I noted: Gary Graham is looking wrinkled. And by that I don't mean old (though, with the historical feel, I would forgive you this interpretation), but literally creased, as if the clothes had been bunched and crumpled and frayed before put on the models. This, with the messy hair had me thinking of little peasant boys. With a tendency to cross dress. Obviously.


  
  
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Charlotte Ronson


Ronson's collection is looking strangely familiar. Almost like I saw something similar back in fall 2009. Shirts tied about the waist and all. Is anyone else getting the DSquared2 vibe? Regardless, she turned out some pieces that are sure to be hits next summer, with a lot of sheer fabrics, prints, and a bit of military (which is never complete without combat boots and scrunchy socks). She also included a bit more colour than we're used to lately, which was nice. On the most basic of levels, the collection was actually really feminine, but she gave it edge by adding in a few tomboyish elements (watch caps, loose sweaters, and the afore mentioned combat boots), which kept it looking cool and playful.


  
  
  
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Altuzarra


Altuzarra has been getting a bit of flack on forums for his collection this season, with many people saying he's stolen from Tom Ford... While I don't condone plagarism, I have to say I enjoyed what he put out on the runway this season. White and black were obviously present in droves, but what I liked most about the collection were the pieces that incorporated the snakeskin panels down the front. It was futuristic, but at the same time sort of tribal, which was an interesting mix. Very chic, very sexy. Very VBC. Which from here on in shall indicate 'Visible Bra Cups'. Those folks over at Harper's Bazaar are clever ones.
  
  
  
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Band of Outsiders


  
  


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Shows from September 12th should be up soon; hopefully tomorrow!


Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

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