September 10th, 2010
Peter Som
Peter Som is looking very colourful, with particular emphasis on bright blues, pinks, and yellows. He was also very happy to pledge his support for printed pieces. Another thing to note: if you're a Peter Som girl, don't expect to be wearing trousers at all next summer. If I remember correctly, there was one pair, and then one look included crops, but aside from that, it was shorts and tiny dresses all the way. Also, blouses were sleeveless and buttoned up all the way, which added a preppy touch. The collection was very cheerful, I must add. Actually, it was the most cheerful colour has been so far in New York, in my humble opinion. Had me thinking of sunshine, lollipops, and rainbows, it did.
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BCBGMaxAzria
Max and Lyubov used colour as a secondary resource this season, keeping their collection extremely minimal. Colours that were used included yellow, orange, and red, though white was undeniably the dominant overall. The collection consisted mostly of floaty silk dresses short and long, and generally loose enough that you're not feeling too uncomfortable when wearing them during the hot summer days. Prints were (surprisingly, perhaps) not quite present here, but what was, was lace. It formed black or white slips which fit over little cocktail dresses adding a bit of extra detail to what was a plain (but beautifully so) collection.
Want more? Click Here
Rag & Bone
After watching the Rag & Bone show, I heaved a deep sigh of relief, because I was beginning to wonder WHERE THE HELL ALL THE MODELS WERE. But, thank God, a couple of them showed up here, so I'm much less tense. I'm also happy to see another collection from David and Marcus, who have been one of my favorite partnerships in New York for the last few seasons. For spring 2011, they sent the girls down the runway in a lot of white, with one of the focal points being the use of odd harness-like things, which appeared on bras, pants, shorts, everything. There were also some silver pants, and black suits. But the colours that popped up seemed to again be primary colours of red, yellow, and in particular, blue. Oh, and prints were heavy too. Crochet was used also, as we have seen at a few other shows this season. I was initially thinking this was going to be S&M inspired with the harnesses, but in the end I felt it was more along the lines of parachuters, courtesy of the sheer fabrics that evoked an airiness in the collection. Overall, I enjoyed the show, but not as much as usual, I'm sorry to say. Not that I didn't like a lot of the pieces, because I really did; maybe it just comes down to the styling? Can't say for sure as yet, maybe my opinion will change in time. Either way, it's Freja Beha's first show in New York thus far and she nabbed the opening look, with her bff Abbey Lee Kershaw closing. Props.
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Costello Tagliapietra
And the case for minimalism was again raised. Costello was very focused on the trend this season, with colours predominantly neutrals. The collection was elegant and graceful, but it achieved this through a casual lens. We saw some yellow, we saw some blue, there was a dropwaist or two... The clothes were very loose on most occasions, which fit Robert and Jeffrey's mission statement for the season, being a look that is presentable and formal, but not stiff and restricting.
Want more? Click Here
Jason Wu
Jason Wu produced a very feminine, professional looking collection for spring 2011, continuing in the vein he began for the fall. Tailored suits, high-waisted pants, and buttoned up blouses, a few knits, and few colourful dresses about sums up the collection. Oh, I forgot to mention, he amped up the sex appeal by making it very sheer at times. Blouses, gowns... he really worked the tranluscent factor this season. Girly touches included big bows at the neck of blouses, and a 'no frills left behind' attitude on the skirts of knee-length dresses. Karlie Kloss showed up to close the show, and breathed a deep sigh of relief as Cat McNeil was second out of the gates in her first show of the season. (Fingers crossed that it's not her last).
Want more? Click Here
Nicole Miller
What's black and white, and cool all over? Before anybody mentions the penguin situation (we can discuss that one at a later date) allow me to direct you all to Nicole Miller's trendy spring 2011 collection. We've got the black, the white, the sheers. It's minimal, there's a bit of military, a touch of leather; she even used prints. Seriously, she hit the gold mine on this one, making all the big fashionable choices she should have, the result being a collection that was very current, but still maintaining an edge that keeps it from being too commercial. Gregory Parkinson probably would have liked to see more prints, but it looks great as is. Nicole Miller, je t'aime.
Want more? Click Here
Julian Louie
Louie turned ten looks for his spring presentation, incorporating the minimalist trend as well as some African inspired prints. An interesting addition was the tassels that were used as earrings and also hung off the front of a skirt and cocktail dress. The shoes were also excellent, carrying the African theme into each look.
Want more? Click Here
Ports 1961
Taking over at Ports seems to have been an easy transition for Fiona Cibani. She turned out an exquisite collection that brought some glamour back to the Big Apple. Bright, solid colours (purple, green, and blue) in satin on gowns, cocktails, and other pieces were like a breath of fresh air after the dominance of minimal neutrals on runways this season. Red carpet looks were stunning in pastels and metallics, some with beaded embellishments that added a little extra elegance. Less formal looks took after a safari trend with khaki and whites, but still maintained a smooth chicness that complimented the Hollywood-esque frocks.
Want more? Click Here
Doo.Ri
The first thing I noticed about Doo-Ri Chung's collection this season was that it was white. Like very white. Even when colours were present, I felt as though they were so incredibly pale that you would mistake them for white if you had seen them out of the show's context. In combination with the lighting on the runway, the clothes almost glowed, as if they were freshly picked from behind the pearly gates. I know it feels like minimalism is getting a little repetitive, but I have to hand it to Chung, this is a collection that's beautiful enough that I could care less. I really loved what she did here, especially the white tuxedo jackets, tails and all. Lovely.
Want more? Click Here
Frank Tell
Frank Tell brought a small collection to New York consisting of fifteen looks. With so few pieces, I am always blown away when designers manage to make it seem like they put out thirty or forty; it's the mark of someone who is truly talented. Tell played with minimalism and suit looks, and he threw in a leather jacket just for good measure, but what I really loved were the knits. Each sheer little sweater contained bits of paper, grass, and bamboo. I don't know if it was just the bamboo evoking jungle imagery or what, but this had me thinking more of summer than most of the collections we've seen so far. Must be the closing look with all that green. Actually, has anybody else noticed that? Green has been very rare so far, oddly, even the military olive types that we usually expect. Wierd.
Want more? Click Here
Michael Angel
In case anybody was looking for a way to combine prints and minimalism, Michael Angel found it. His collection was an excellent play on both trends that also strengthened the case for prints (which has been lagging a little, I think) with his eloquent graphics that evoke the palettes of Renaissance painters. Pairing a plain tailored blouse with a colourful printed skirt, or accentuating a white and grey suit with a vivid collared shirt, Angel took the best of both worlds to create a truly beautiful collection. He managed to fit in a few sheers as well, believe it or not. Plastic jackets and skirts that recalled a former frequent of Lady Gaga's wardrobe were also used. The fully buttoned collar was in overdrive here, featuring in just about every look on the runway. This is not the first time this has happened either, so keep an eye on that, it's looking like we've got a preppy movement on our hands.
Want more? Click Here
Steven Alan
Steven Alan is looking very much like a resort collection for spring 2011, with a distinctive 'tourist' edge about many of his looks. It is his first presentation in New York, in fact, it's also only the beginnings of a branch out into the creation of pieces aside from the men's shirt, for which he is well known. The collection was plain but sweet, consisting of 15 looks (for women) and if there was one thing that really caught my eye, it was the presence of hats. We haven't seen many hats so far (unless you count the turban-esque things at Jason Wu), so it was nice to be caught unawares, I suppose. It will be interesting to see how Alan transitions in future seasons as his brand expands into other areas of fashion. Any predictions for where he'll be in five to ten years?
Want more? Click Here
Well, three down, six to go...
Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford
Photos courtesy of style.com and style.it
Peter Som
Peter Som is looking very colourful, with particular emphasis on bright blues, pinks, and yellows. He was also very happy to pledge his support for printed pieces. Another thing to note: if you're a Peter Som girl, don't expect to be wearing trousers at all next summer. If I remember correctly, there was one pair, and then one look included crops, but aside from that, it was shorts and tiny dresses all the way. Also, blouses were sleeveless and buttoned up all the way, which added a preppy touch. The collection was very cheerful, I must add. Actually, it was the most cheerful colour has been so far in New York, in my humble opinion. Had me thinking of sunshine, lollipops, and rainbows, it did.
Want more? Click Here
BCBGMaxAzria
Max and Lyubov used colour as a secondary resource this season, keeping their collection extremely minimal. Colours that were used included yellow, orange, and red, though white was undeniably the dominant overall. The collection consisted mostly of floaty silk dresses short and long, and generally loose enough that you're not feeling too uncomfortable when wearing them during the hot summer days. Prints were (surprisingly, perhaps) not quite present here, but what was, was lace. It formed black or white slips which fit over little cocktail dresses adding a bit of extra detail to what was a plain (but beautifully so) collection.
Want more? Click Here
Rag & Bone
After watching the Rag & Bone show, I heaved a deep sigh of relief, because I was beginning to wonder WHERE THE HELL ALL THE MODELS WERE. But, thank God, a couple of them showed up here, so I'm much less tense. I'm also happy to see another collection from David and Marcus, who have been one of my favorite partnerships in New York for the last few seasons. For spring 2011, they sent the girls down the runway in a lot of white, with one of the focal points being the use of odd harness-like things, which appeared on bras, pants, shorts, everything. There were also some silver pants, and black suits. But the colours that popped up seemed to again be primary colours of red, yellow, and in particular, blue. Oh, and prints were heavy too. Crochet was used also, as we have seen at a few other shows this season. I was initially thinking this was going to be S&M inspired with the harnesses, but in the end I felt it was more along the lines of parachuters, courtesy of the sheer fabrics that evoked an airiness in the collection. Overall, I enjoyed the show, but not as much as usual, I'm sorry to say. Not that I didn't like a lot of the pieces, because I really did; maybe it just comes down to the styling? Can't say for sure as yet, maybe my opinion will change in time. Either way, it's Freja Beha's first show in New York thus far and she nabbed the opening look, with her bff Abbey Lee Kershaw closing. Props.
Want more? Click Here
Costello Tagliapietra
And the case for minimalism was again raised. Costello was very focused on the trend this season, with colours predominantly neutrals. The collection was elegant and graceful, but it achieved this through a casual lens. We saw some yellow, we saw some blue, there was a dropwaist or two... The clothes were very loose on most occasions, which fit Robert and Jeffrey's mission statement for the season, being a look that is presentable and formal, but not stiff and restricting.
Want more? Click Here
Jason Wu
Jason Wu produced a very feminine, professional looking collection for spring 2011, continuing in the vein he began for the fall. Tailored suits, high-waisted pants, and buttoned up blouses, a few knits, and few colourful dresses about sums up the collection. Oh, I forgot to mention, he amped up the sex appeal by making it very sheer at times. Blouses, gowns... he really worked the tranluscent factor this season. Girly touches included big bows at the neck of blouses, and a 'no frills left behind' attitude on the skirts of knee-length dresses. Karlie Kloss showed up to close the show, and breathed a deep sigh of relief as Cat McNeil was second out of the gates in her first show of the season. (Fingers crossed that it's not her last).
Want more? Click Here
Nicole Miller
What's black and white, and cool all over? Before anybody mentions the penguin situation (we can discuss that one at a later date) allow me to direct you all to Nicole Miller's trendy spring 2011 collection. We've got the black, the white, the sheers. It's minimal, there's a bit of military, a touch of leather; she even used prints. Seriously, she hit the gold mine on this one, making all the big fashionable choices she should have, the result being a collection that was very current, but still maintaining an edge that keeps it from being too commercial. Gregory Parkinson probably would have liked to see more prints, but it looks great as is. Nicole Miller, je t'aime.
Want more? Click Here
Julian Louie
Louie turned ten looks for his spring presentation, incorporating the minimalist trend as well as some African inspired prints. An interesting addition was the tassels that were used as earrings and also hung off the front of a skirt and cocktail dress. The shoes were also excellent, carrying the African theme into each look.
Want more? Click Here
Ports 1961
Taking over at Ports seems to have been an easy transition for Fiona Cibani. She turned out an exquisite collection that brought some glamour back to the Big Apple. Bright, solid colours (purple, green, and blue) in satin on gowns, cocktails, and other pieces were like a breath of fresh air after the dominance of minimal neutrals on runways this season. Red carpet looks were stunning in pastels and metallics, some with beaded embellishments that added a little extra elegance. Less formal looks took after a safari trend with khaki and whites, but still maintained a smooth chicness that complimented the Hollywood-esque frocks.
Want more? Click Here
Doo.Ri
The first thing I noticed about Doo-Ri Chung's collection this season was that it was white. Like very white. Even when colours were present, I felt as though they were so incredibly pale that you would mistake them for white if you had seen them out of the show's context. In combination with the lighting on the runway, the clothes almost glowed, as if they were freshly picked from behind the pearly gates. I know it feels like minimalism is getting a little repetitive, but I have to hand it to Chung, this is a collection that's beautiful enough that I could care less. I really loved what she did here, especially the white tuxedo jackets, tails and all. Lovely.
Want more? Click Here
Frank Tell
Frank Tell brought a small collection to New York consisting of fifteen looks. With so few pieces, I am always blown away when designers manage to make it seem like they put out thirty or forty; it's the mark of someone who is truly talented. Tell played with minimalism and suit looks, and he threw in a leather jacket just for good measure, but what I really loved were the knits. Each sheer little sweater contained bits of paper, grass, and bamboo. I don't know if it was just the bamboo evoking jungle imagery or what, but this had me thinking more of summer than most of the collections we've seen so far. Must be the closing look with all that green. Actually, has anybody else noticed that? Green has been very rare so far, oddly, even the military olive types that we usually expect. Wierd.
Want more? Click Here
Michael Angel
In case anybody was looking for a way to combine prints and minimalism, Michael Angel found it. His collection was an excellent play on both trends that also strengthened the case for prints (which has been lagging a little, I think) with his eloquent graphics that evoke the palettes of Renaissance painters. Pairing a plain tailored blouse with a colourful printed skirt, or accentuating a white and grey suit with a vivid collared shirt, Angel took the best of both worlds to create a truly beautiful collection. He managed to fit in a few sheers as well, believe it or not. Plastic jackets and skirts that recalled a former frequent of Lady Gaga's wardrobe were also used. The fully buttoned collar was in overdrive here, featuring in just about every look on the runway. This is not the first time this has happened either, so keep an eye on that, it's looking like we've got a preppy movement on our hands.
Steven Alan
Steven Alan is looking very much like a resort collection for spring 2011, with a distinctive 'tourist' edge about many of his looks. It is his first presentation in New York, in fact, it's also only the beginnings of a branch out into the creation of pieces aside from the men's shirt, for which he is well known. The collection was plain but sweet, consisting of 15 looks (for women) and if there was one thing that really caught my eye, it was the presence of hats. We haven't seen many hats so far (unless you count the turban-esque things at Jason Wu), so it was nice to be caught unawares, I suppose. It will be interesting to see how Alan transitions in future seasons as his brand expands into other areas of fashion. Any predictions for where he'll be in five to ten years?
Want more? Click Here
Well, three down, six to go...
Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford
Photos courtesy of style.com and style.it
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