September 9th, 2010:
Lyn Devon
Not quite my style, but to each her own. Lyn Devon returned this season with more of her trademark classic tailoring in 22 looks. She fit in a few bold colours with this collection, including a bright red dress, a yellow top and skirt set, and a few acid green pieces, that really added a bit of pop. She also incorporated small polka dot and red butterfly prints. Shirts were buttoned up all the way and tucked into high waisted shorts and pants. Overall, the Lyn Devon girl is looking a little too polished for my own taste, but I quite liked the trenches in looks 14 and 17. Props to Cecilia Mendez on her posing here though, it made the clothes look much younger and more quirky than they would have otherwise.
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Nicholas K
So what was going on over at Nicholas K on Thursday? Awesomeness, that's what. Colourwise, the collection was very tonal, with a heavy dose of different grey hues, and intermittent beige and olive greens. Models trudged down the catwalk in buckled and laced combat boots with aviators and burettes, occassionally toting the largest bag you've ever seen. There were glimpses of plaid and stripes, but the real story was the continuation of the nomadic theme from her fall collection. She had a lot of what will hereafter be referred to as 'the slouch factor', which I generally reserve for Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone, but I will use it here, as it feels appropriate. Draping to the max, trench coats with oversized hoods, the lightweight aviator theme that seemed a bit of a throw back to Burberry Prorsum's Fall 2010 collection, leather jackets... I can't even... Fuck this, long and short of it is, I'm buying everything.
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Richard Chai Love
Minimalism appears to be a trend a la snowball effect, as we see Richard Chai also toning down his collection and leaving the maximal at home. Like Nicholas K, he decided to go with a look we might associate with a nomadic culture. However, in using whites, greys, and pale blues, in collaboration with a lot of sheer nude fabrics, his collection took on a more feminine appeal. The sheer look was perhaps the most notable, with models decked out in it, whether it be pants or a top (in which case, you would also see that bandeau bras were quite popular). Everything seemed loose, especially the pants, which were big and flowy at times. You got the sense that the clothing wasn't hugging you, it had merely lighted upon you, and a weak draft would send it flying away. Lacking the military edge we had at Nicholas K, Richard Chai's collection felt very soft and feminine, perhaps ethereal. I also thought it was a little futuristic in a way; maybe the sort of thing we'll all be wearing when we're rocketting off to Neptune or whatever. Very nice.
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Bensoni
It was prints galore in the Bensoni runway, with little room for anything else. On occasion, a bright yellow or white frock popped up, but in this contest, the prints win, for sure. They appeared on full-length skirts, blazers, and cocktail gowns, and completely dominated the show, stripes being particularly relevant. Pants and skirts were high-waisted, with hemlines dropping right down to the floor. Cocktail length dresses were also big here, whether they were worn under a blazer or trench, or just by their lonesome.
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Christian Siriano
The print trend continues at Christian Siriano, with a particular focus on crocodile, which was used in brown and pink tones, as well as brown and blue. Siriano designed a number of really cute cocktail dresses, which I'm sure all the Project Runway fans will love. His finale pieces were red carpet gowns, which became progressively more outrageous, beginning with a flowing printed piece and ending with two gowns you could barely see for the mass of ruffles and tulle projecting out of them. Ruffles was a big thing for him this season, present on most of the dresses he presented, but he also sent out a few pant and skirt suits, which featured the afore mentioned crocodile prints, as well as snake skin. My favorites? The opening looks. I really liked the simple whites with brown leather.
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Cushnie et Ochs
Carly and Michelle have returned for another season, and it's looking like they're getting a bit soft. Their spring collection is much less dark than previous ones, and who knows why. Seems to be working for them though. Preppy, fully buttoned shirts, floral prints, and sheers gave the collection a gentler feel, accentuated by consistent minimalism (safe to say, minimalism remains strong folks... looks like RRR for spring 2011). But in case you're thinking these two ladies have gone completely off their rockers, let me assure you that they haven't abandoned the edge that they're known for: a closer look at those floral prints reveal little decapitated people. And if that's a little too morbid, you can always go for a few leather pieces. There was elegant draping on several looks, which lent itself to a feminine aura. Pleating also appeared on skirts and cocktail dresses. Oh, and the shoes? Be sure you monitor yourself appropriate while wearing them. Kicking someone with those will undoubtedly draw blood. Overall, an impressive display that is going to earn them a few new fans.
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Gregory Parkinson
Parkinson's first presentation at NYFW is unlike anything we've seen so far this season in that it is an abundance of colour. Every single look in the collection was a rainbow of prints (predominantly altered animal ones); sometimes a piece was made up of numerous different fabrics. Outfits were heavily layered at times, and most were belted down about the waist. Knee-length skirts and full out boho maxi dresses were a la mode as well, but seriously, the vibe I'm getting most strongly here is prints and colours. Just go buy some for the sake of this man's sanity. He's clearly unhappy with the minimalist trend.
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Jen Kao
Last season, Jen Kao brought us an edgy, dark collection, but for spring 2011, she had much lighter things in mind, and I have to say, I love the change. There was a lot of white (which I suppose we are starting to expect) and the collection felt heavenly. Personally, I felt there was whole Ancient Greek mythology vibe going on, what with the flowy white dresses, the crocheting (which reminded me of ship rigging, oddly), and the strange technique she used on the shoes. Not to mention, I swear to Zeus that some of the pieces were inspired by Xena, everyone's favorite warrior princess. Colours were white, olive, beige, and brown, with some royal blues thrown in as well (again, helloooo Athens). Anyway, definitely one of my favorite collections so far in New York; it's dreamlike in it's quality. FFG*.
*Fit For Gods
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Mandy Coon
Mandy Coon reportedly looked to the sea for inspiration on her spring collection this year, in particular, the jellyfish. I definitely picked up on that a bit with some of the looks, particularly a few of the dresses, which had sheer fabrics trailing down from the skirt, but also in the prints that were often tossed over the shoulder. Apart from a few white and coral looks, Coon's show was very dark, incorporating a lot of leather. There was also a sort of unfinished look to the collection, evoked by somewhat tattered hemlines, and the fact that the models occasionally had only one arm in the sleeve of a jacket, allowing it to hang off their shoulder.The off the shoulder thing also had me thinking about bull fighters at times. I'm a little stymied by Coon at the moment; perhaps I just need a little time.
Want more? Click Here
Rachel Comey
Prints were big ar Rachel Comey, appearing on everything from head to toe. Comey went with a more mature look than we are used to from previous seasons, but the overall effect was successful. Looks that might have seemed a little too modest for the sweltering heat we've been experiencing lately appeared lighter than you might expect, thanks to thinner fabrics and the use of sheers and chiffons. While it's not what I'm likely to be wearing in a year's time, I can definitely see what the benefits of it would be for others.
Want more? Click Here
Ruffian
I have to say, I was really liking the naval/military theme in this collection. The white with royal blue or red was really stunning, and it had me impressed from the get-go. I mean, Sigrid's opening look? Killer. The traditional military green also popped up a fair bit, as did animal prints (among others) and gold. I liked that the coloured fabrics were often silky with a sheen; it added glamour to the strict, military-inspired pieces and also created a sense that the clothes were being worn on a film or something, if you catch my meaning? The prints brought in visions from various places across the world, like Africa and the Far East, making this almost feel like Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.
Want more? Click Here
Vena Cava
I apologize if it seems I'm getting repetitive, but we've got some more prints at Vena Cava. Certainly not overpowering, but they are definitely in the mix. Oh, and I know it's been a while since I mentioned minimalism... The collection is also a little retro in colouration, I thought, featuring a variety of blues with yellow and an orange-red, with the usual black and white. The clothes themselves were retro too at times, particularly in the handling of some skirt hemlines. Halter dresses and short suits were also to be had.
Want more? Click Here
Kimberly Ovitz
Minimalist. Black and white. Stripes. And squares. Lots of squares. While this seems simple and boring, I actually quite liked Ovitz's collection. I loved the trench coat, but more than anything, the looks that involved pasting squares and rectangles on to the pieces were ones that I found really appealing. Drapery was also a staple (as we expect from Ovitz). Apparently the whole collection was built around the square, which we see in the looks mentioned before, but in others as well, like a sweater that was made from a square piece of fabric by cutting holes in strategic locations. Not so black and white anymore, is it?
Want more? Click Here
Holy mother, that took a long time. Don't expect a review of September 10th for at least three days folks, but please check out the shows yourself as well! More to come...
Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford
Photos courtesy of style.com
Lyn Devon
Not quite my style, but to each her own. Lyn Devon returned this season with more of her trademark classic tailoring in 22 looks. She fit in a few bold colours with this collection, including a bright red dress, a yellow top and skirt set, and a few acid green pieces, that really added a bit of pop. She also incorporated small polka dot and red butterfly prints. Shirts were buttoned up all the way and tucked into high waisted shorts and pants. Overall, the Lyn Devon girl is looking a little too polished for my own taste, but I quite liked the trenches in looks 14 and 17. Props to Cecilia Mendez on her posing here though, it made the clothes look much younger and more quirky than they would have otherwise.
Want more? Click Here
Nicholas K
So what was going on over at Nicholas K on Thursday? Awesomeness, that's what. Colourwise, the collection was very tonal, with a heavy dose of different grey hues, and intermittent beige and olive greens. Models trudged down the catwalk in buckled and laced combat boots with aviators and burettes, occassionally toting the largest bag you've ever seen. There were glimpses of plaid and stripes, but the real story was the continuation of the nomadic theme from her fall collection. She had a lot of what will hereafter be referred to as 'the slouch factor', which I generally reserve for Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone, but I will use it here, as it feels appropriate. Draping to the max, trench coats with oversized hoods, the lightweight aviator theme that seemed a bit of a throw back to Burberry Prorsum's Fall 2010 collection, leather jackets... I can't even... Fuck this, long and short of it is, I'm buying everything.
Want more? Click Here
Richard Chai Love
Minimalism appears to be a trend a la snowball effect, as we see Richard Chai also toning down his collection and leaving the maximal at home. Like Nicholas K, he decided to go with a look we might associate with a nomadic culture. However, in using whites, greys, and pale blues, in collaboration with a lot of sheer nude fabrics, his collection took on a more feminine appeal. The sheer look was perhaps the most notable, with models decked out in it, whether it be pants or a top (in which case, you would also see that bandeau bras were quite popular). Everything seemed loose, especially the pants, which were big and flowy at times. You got the sense that the clothing wasn't hugging you, it had merely lighted upon you, and a weak draft would send it flying away. Lacking the military edge we had at Nicholas K, Richard Chai's collection felt very soft and feminine, perhaps ethereal. I also thought it was a little futuristic in a way; maybe the sort of thing we'll all be wearing when we're rocketting off to Neptune or whatever. Very nice.
Want more? Click Here
Bensoni
It was prints galore in the Bensoni runway, with little room for anything else. On occasion, a bright yellow or white frock popped up, but in this contest, the prints win, for sure. They appeared on full-length skirts, blazers, and cocktail gowns, and completely dominated the show, stripes being particularly relevant. Pants and skirts were high-waisted, with hemlines dropping right down to the floor. Cocktail length dresses were also big here, whether they were worn under a blazer or trench, or just by their lonesome.
Want more? Click Here
Christian Siriano
The print trend continues at Christian Siriano, with a particular focus on crocodile, which was used in brown and pink tones, as well as brown and blue. Siriano designed a number of really cute cocktail dresses, which I'm sure all the Project Runway fans will love. His finale pieces were red carpet gowns, which became progressively more outrageous, beginning with a flowing printed piece and ending with two gowns you could barely see for the mass of ruffles and tulle projecting out of them. Ruffles was a big thing for him this season, present on most of the dresses he presented, but he also sent out a few pant and skirt suits, which featured the afore mentioned crocodile prints, as well as snake skin. My favorites? The opening looks. I really liked the simple whites with brown leather.
Want more? Click Here
Cushnie et Ochs
Carly and Michelle have returned for another season, and it's looking like they're getting a bit soft. Their spring collection is much less dark than previous ones, and who knows why. Seems to be working for them though. Preppy, fully buttoned shirts, floral prints, and sheers gave the collection a gentler feel, accentuated by consistent minimalism (safe to say, minimalism remains strong folks... looks like RRR for spring 2011). But in case you're thinking these two ladies have gone completely off their rockers, let me assure you that they haven't abandoned the edge that they're known for: a closer look at those floral prints reveal little decapitated people. And if that's a little too morbid, you can always go for a few leather pieces. There was elegant draping on several looks, which lent itself to a feminine aura. Pleating also appeared on skirts and cocktail dresses. Oh, and the shoes? Be sure you monitor yourself appropriate while wearing them. Kicking someone with those will undoubtedly draw blood. Overall, an impressive display that is going to earn them a few new fans.
Want more? Click Here
Gregory Parkinson
Parkinson's first presentation at NYFW is unlike anything we've seen so far this season in that it is an abundance of colour. Every single look in the collection was a rainbow of prints (predominantly altered animal ones); sometimes a piece was made up of numerous different fabrics. Outfits were heavily layered at times, and most were belted down about the waist. Knee-length skirts and full out boho maxi dresses were a la mode as well, but seriously, the vibe I'm getting most strongly here is prints and colours. Just go buy some for the sake of this man's sanity. He's clearly unhappy with the minimalist trend.
Want more? Click Here
Jen Kao
Last season, Jen Kao brought us an edgy, dark collection, but for spring 2011, she had much lighter things in mind, and I have to say, I love the change. There was a lot of white (which I suppose we are starting to expect) and the collection felt heavenly. Personally, I felt there was whole Ancient Greek mythology vibe going on, what with the flowy white dresses, the crocheting (which reminded me of ship rigging, oddly), and the strange technique she used on the shoes. Not to mention, I swear to Zeus that some of the pieces were inspired by Xena, everyone's favorite warrior princess. Colours were white, olive, beige, and brown, with some royal blues thrown in as well (again, helloooo Athens). Anyway, definitely one of my favorite collections so far in New York; it's dreamlike in it's quality. FFG*.
*Fit For Gods
Want more? Click Here
Mandy Coon
Mandy Coon reportedly looked to the sea for inspiration on her spring collection this year, in particular, the jellyfish. I definitely picked up on that a bit with some of the looks, particularly a few of the dresses, which had sheer fabrics trailing down from the skirt, but also in the prints that were often tossed over the shoulder. Apart from a few white and coral looks, Coon's show was very dark, incorporating a lot of leather. There was also a sort of unfinished look to the collection, evoked by somewhat tattered hemlines, and the fact that the models occasionally had only one arm in the sleeve of a jacket, allowing it to hang off their shoulder.The off the shoulder thing also had me thinking about bull fighters at times. I'm a little stymied by Coon at the moment; perhaps I just need a little time.
Want more? Click Here
Rachel Comey
Prints were big ar Rachel Comey, appearing on everything from head to toe. Comey went with a more mature look than we are used to from previous seasons, but the overall effect was successful. Looks that might have seemed a little too modest for the sweltering heat we've been experiencing lately appeared lighter than you might expect, thanks to thinner fabrics and the use of sheers and chiffons. While it's not what I'm likely to be wearing in a year's time, I can definitely see what the benefits of it would be for others.
Want more? Click Here
Ruffian
I have to say, I was really liking the naval/military theme in this collection. The white with royal blue or red was really stunning, and it had me impressed from the get-go. I mean, Sigrid's opening look? Killer. The traditional military green also popped up a fair bit, as did animal prints (among others) and gold. I liked that the coloured fabrics were often silky with a sheen; it added glamour to the strict, military-inspired pieces and also created a sense that the clothes were being worn on a film or something, if you catch my meaning? The prints brought in visions from various places across the world, like Africa and the Far East, making this almost feel like Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.
Want more? Click Here
Vena Cava
I apologize if it seems I'm getting repetitive, but we've got some more prints at Vena Cava. Certainly not overpowering, but they are definitely in the mix. Oh, and I know it's been a while since I mentioned minimalism... The collection is also a little retro in colouration, I thought, featuring a variety of blues with yellow and an orange-red, with the usual black and white. The clothes themselves were retro too at times, particularly in the handling of some skirt hemlines. Halter dresses and short suits were also to be had.
Want more? Click Here
Kimberly Ovitz
Minimalist. Black and white. Stripes. And squares. Lots of squares. While this seems simple and boring, I actually quite liked Ovitz's collection. I loved the trench coat, but more than anything, the looks that involved pasting squares and rectangles on to the pieces were ones that I found really appealing. Drapery was also a staple (as we expect from Ovitz). Apparently the whole collection was built around the square, which we see in the looks mentioned before, but in others as well, like a sweater that was made from a square piece of fabric by cutting holes in strategic locations. Not so black and white anymore, is it?
Want more? Click Here
Holy mother, that took a long time. Don't expect a review of September 10th for at least three days folks, but please check out the shows yourself as well! More to come...
Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford
Photos courtesy of style.com
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