20 May 2011

The Tale of a Fairy: A Study in Frejanomics and the Catherine McNeil Effect

There is little else in the world of fashion that is more exciting than the Chanel Cruise collections, which are shown in wealth-laden/fantastic/breath-taking locations each year. But this event is not anticipated for the clothes so much as for the inevitable euphoria that comes in the form of Kaiser Karl's endeavours into the world of cinema. Last year, he took us to St Tropez with the gripping feature Remember Now. But for 2012, he has really given it his all, travelling down the coast to the Antibes for The Tale of a Fairy (Part 1, Part 2), starring a frighteningly high-strung Kristen McMenamy, a gorgeous-as-ever Anna Mouglalis, and a curiously talkative Freja Beha Erichsen. There's some pretty boys as well.

Karl's filmmaking skills have certainly improved since last season; in terms of the cinematography, it was very well done, and the acting wasn't quite as horrendously embarrassing and discomforting as it was last time around. Of course, nobody really payed any attention to any of that sort of thing. I mean, I would totes magotes have found those facets interesting. I might even have paid attention to the clothes if Anna's numerous admirers were ever wearing any. As it was, I was distracted by the same thing as everyone else, being the Sapphic shenanigans that completely dominated the final 25% of the film, during which 90% of Freja Beha's fans sighed with cathartic satisfaction.

I mean, as scandalous as it is, who really gives a shit that Kristen McMenamy is apparently carrying on with Baptiste Giabiconi, who is apparently her godson? Who cares about how 'pretty' the film looked, or how 'creative' the collection was, or how 'improved' Karl's cinematic skills are? Keeping in mind that we have not been enticed to look forward to this annual event in the expectation of anything Oscar worthy, one would think that the latter might have been noted more by all the highly educated, realistic, and critical viewers who turned up for the affair. As this was not the case, The Tale of a Fairy will be from hereafter referred to as The Time Where Freja and Anna were Pashing in the Lou. Or, for a multitude of others, The Time Where Freja Was Pashing Someone I Didn't Know, But Imagined was Me, in the Lou

I don't know what Chanel herself would have to say about all of this, but I have a feeling that it's not really a good sign when the clothes you have made are not just overshadowed, but entirely ignored because you've filmed FBE enjoying the taste of another girl's cherry chapstick. I read an article a few days ago that I found rather interesting, and actually quite relevant to this case here. Under the title "Skinny Again, Crystal Renn," David P Dykes (the irony is killing you all right now, I know) of fashionising.com muses over the famous anorexic-turned-plus-sized model's recent shoot for TUSH with Ellen von Unwerth, and the concept of the "celebrity model," pioneered by (who else) Kate Moss and attempted by various others, none of whom have managed similar success. He notes that "the Catherine McNeil effect" (a.k.a., when the celebrity of a model takes precedence over their work) is one that a number of models have unfortunately fallen victim to as models become ever more interesting to the public. Renn, who is perhaps the most well known plus sized model in fashion right now (seriously, Tyra, shut the fuck up), is remarkably un-plus sized in the shoot. I would particularly like to draw attention to the final part of the article:
[...] when you're a model your career is dependent on helping fashion houses sell clothing and accessories but their target market sees your photos and take in solely the shape of your body, there's a danger for your career.
In the same vein, I am wondering whether Freja's personal life may threaten the longevity of her career. There are many brands making money off of her at the moment (Georg Jensen and Harry Winston, to name a few), and I am curious to know what about her appeal appears to be driving the sales (assuming that there are no confounding variables in the correlations between her being the face of a brand and that brand's sales spikes). Does Freja sell because of her 'look', or does she sell because of the asterix note that reads "lesbian"?

I find it hard to believe that enough people are aware of the numerous rumours surrounding her personal life for there to be any reason but the former. She is (in)famous across the fashion industry and it's followers, but I think it would be ridiculous at this point to suppose that the majority of the general public even know what her name is, let alone what team she purportedly bats for, and that seems to be the best thing for a model. But with Freja's ever-rising popularity and notoriety, I fear that she may find herself falling victim to a similar fate as her rumoured ex (Side note: if this ends up happening, how incredibly tragic is the tale of McBeha? Someone tell Karl. Sure, a tragic film might get you a SAG award, but a tragic film about lesbians? Charlize Theron and Natalie Portman will be the first to attest that those ones win freaking Oscars.). What happens when people do know her name, and even more dauntingly, care enough to investigate what's going on behind the scenes? How will designers (other than Karl, obviously) react to a model who the public views increasingly as "the lesbian model"?

If the most recent pigeon-holing of Freja as "the androgynous model" is anything to go by, labels are hard to shake in an industry where models are meant to be blank canvasses. The boyish cut Freja sported for a couple of years resulted in a drop in her workload that rattled her loyal fanbase. But hair grows back, and once hers did, the pigeon-holing began to happen less frequently, to the point where she is now garnering more attention from designers with more feminine aesthetics. It is my hope that the growing publicity surrounding Freja and her sexuality does not become a limiting factor in what is an already stellar career, but as Dykes so eloquently indicated, fashion is not supposed to be about the model, but the clothes and the message of the brand that model is promoting. Freja is a good model to be sure, but is she good enough for designers to risk including the (sometimes dangerous) term "lesbian" in their list of attributes? I certainly don't care, but then, I am not a market scientist.

Cometh the Catherine, cometh the Freja.

Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

13 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thank you for scaring me shitless.

But I get what you are saying, the lesbian tag isn't always the most endearing one that can be attached to an ad campaign. I think it's too early to be thinking like this though. People still don't really know or care who Freja is, so I don't think it will really matter. Plus, she should be winding down her career soon anyway, so she won't be doing modelling quite so often.

Cool idea, tying it back to the Crystal Renn article by the way. It was a nice touch.

Anonymous said...

Yeah your blowing this out of proportion. Cat's career died because she was partying all the time. It didn't have anything to do with being a lesbian.

Anonymous said...

I completely agree with Gill actually. Say what you want about gay rights and how it's best to be yourself and everything, but how many models have come out as lesbians and continued with a prolific career? It seems like whenever a model comes out, she drops off the face of the fashion industry. I think Gill makes some very good points about how essential it is that a model's personal life is kept out of the public eye. It may block her from being open about herself and everything, but it is part of the job. Which is really sad, actually.

Anonymous said...

^^ Cat's career died for a number of reasons. Partying wasn't so much the problem as the fact that she became less dedicated and gained weight. And when it came to partying it wasn't the act but the people she was doing it with (her girlfriend/fiance Ruby Rose). Cat being a lesbian wouldn't have been a problem at all as long as she hadn't been dating the most famous lesbian in Australia. It brought undue publicity to her, which tainted her reputation in the industry.

I don't think it's wrong to compare Cat's situation to Freja's. Sure they're different people and there are differences between the contexts but Freja is now widely rumored to be dating Arizona Muse who has an enormous amount of media attention focused on her right now. I can't remember the last time I picked up a magazine where she wasn't featured in an editorial, an interview, or some other write-up about how amazing and inspirational she is. Tie in Freja's previous relationship with the 'original sinner' Cat and her friendship with Abbey Lee (who is fairly well-known in her own right) and Freja might well become a general interest of the public soon.

Anonymous said...

^that's a good point about arizona actually

Allana said...

Am I the only one who read the Crystal Renn article? Cat is serving as a prototype/example of a model who's personal life became too public for her to continue modelling. I don't think she is saying that Cat and Freja are the same, I thought she was just making the same connections between the Cat McNeil effect and the Chanel video that was made in the article between the Cat McNeil effect and Crystal Renn's photoshoot?

prada in my pocket said...

@Allana that's what I got from it too. I think everybody is just assuming this is about Cat and Freja being two sides of the same coin because they are focusing on the whole McBeha thing.

Gill isn't comparing Freja to Cat! She's looking at the Chanel video (and Freja's depiction within it) in the context of Dykes' article, and his argument about how it is a model's job to sell clothes, and how their personal lives can have a major impact on their ability to do just that.

Great post Gill, I thought it was really interesting that you chose to view the video through this perspective. At first glance I thought you might be making mountains out of molehills, but then I realized that you are completely right: thinking back to the Chanel video, I don't remember anything about it except Freja and Anna making out. So your point is validated through me, anyway ;)

Anonymous said...

NOBODY KNOWS WHO FREJA IS

prada in my pocket said...

A lot of you obviously missed this section of the post:

"Does Freja sell because of her 'look', or does she sell because of the asterix note that reads "lesbian"? I find it hard to believe that enough people are aware of the numerous rumours surrounding her personal life for there to be any reason but the former. She is (in)famous across the fashion industry and it's followers, but I think it would be ridiculous at this point to suppose that the majority of the general public even know what her name is, let alone what team she purportedly bats for, and that seems to be the best thing for a model."

Anonymous said...

Thanks to all the commenters! I didn't pick up on a lot of the things you are saying when I read it... I thought she was saying that she thinks Freja's career is going to end because she's a lesbian :S But thanks for clearing that up!

Anonymous said...

Gill, the Freja thread at the L Chat is having an intelligent conversation for the first time in forever because of this post. THANK YOU.

Gill Ford said...

Wow, I knew a lot of people were visiting the Freja-related posts, but I didn't think anyone was really reading any of them... Was NOT expecting such a big response to this one!

There does seem to be a bit of confusion around interpretations of my opinion though, which Allana prada sums up quite nicely (thank you my dear!). This was more just me musing about the film having read the Crystal Renn article a little while before, not so much a set in stone opinion. That said, I do think it is a matter that merits some concern under the condition that Freja's popularity breaks into the public sphere (note that this is a CONDITIONAL clause).

Anonymous 5:04 makes a point of the 'relationship' between Freja and Arizona... I wasn't aware that this was a fact? I've heard the odd rumour obviously, but I don't recall anyone ever confirming that they were more than two popular models that were doing a lot of shoots together (which is not uncommon, honestly) and became mates. But I suppose if I'm the only one that's questioning that tandem here, it's a position that's widely known enough to fit into the point :P

@Anonymous 1:31 : Always happy to be of service to you ladies (and gentry, if that's also the case). I'm glad that the talk has been spurred by my writing this time around! (it was my writing, right?)

Again, thanks everybody for their contributions, I've really enjoyed the discussion!

Anonymous said...

All the lesbians have commented.
If there is any conversation about Freja, the sapphic army comes to defend