So on Thursday, we began the first full day of runway shows with Nicholas K, who was incidentally, a favorite of mine last season. Noted for her draping of sleek jersey fabrics, MASSIVE hoods (And honestly, how many times do you find yourself wishing the hood on your jacket or hoodie was a little bigger? Especially on those days when it's raining and you're trying your best to keep your hair covered, but the hood inevitably creeps back, leaving an exposed inch or two? Yup, it happens to me all the time. Really. It rains a lot over here.), and punky, nomadic style, Nicholas Kunz left me impressed last season... I maintain a particular fondness for the way she pairs her grays and pale blues.
For fall, it is much of the same from the designer, just a little darker, heavier, and more covered up than what she brought us in September. The hoods are still there, but they are lined in furs; the little sweater shorts have been elongated and tucked into woolen socks; and the aviator lenses have been appropriately swapped from blue to brown (You bet your ass I wear my aviators in the winter. I wear my aviators all year round. Why? Because the sun still exists when it's cold. And I make them look downright delectable, what can I say.). So, yet again, Kunz has me hook, line, and sinker in terms of shit that I want to wear. Well, except for the waist-tied shirts (a little too lumberjack-meets-mechanic for yours truly) and the velvet pants. Even my bff Alexander Wang couldn't convert me over to that movement when he did it last year.
For fall, it is much of the same from the designer, just a little darker, heavier, and more covered up than what she brought us in September. The hoods are still there, but they are lined in furs; the little sweater shorts have been elongated and tucked into woolen socks; and the aviator lenses have been appropriately swapped from blue to brown (You bet your ass I wear my aviators in the winter. I wear my aviators all year round. Why? Because the sun still exists when it's cold. And I make them look downright delectable, what can I say.). So, yet again, Kunz has me hook, line, and sinker in terms of shit that I want to wear. Well, except for the waist-tied shirts (a little too lumberjack-meets-mechanic for yours truly) and the velvet pants. Even my bff Alexander Wang couldn't convert me over to that movement when he did it last year.
From Nicholas K we moved on to presentations at Porter Grey (who presented some wonderfully constructed outerwear) Steven Alan (with a collection of what I suppose was 70s American Ivy League de rigueur) followed by BCBGMAXAZRIA, who took inspiration from the same chronological period, but in what is the fast becoming trademark minimalist style of the label. Waistlines and hemlines were both dropped fairly low, with skirts and dresses never shorter than the knees (indeed, they were often longer). Again, we saw the use of basic colours: black and white, of course, but also our primaries in blue, mustard yellow, and cherry red. I thought it was an interesting point made by Meenal Mistry that BCBG seems to be aging in its style. I noted yesterday how many brands are trying to design clothing for the younger generation, but the concept of a label "growing up" wasn't one I had thought of. It certainly seems to be true in the case of BCBG though, which has in the past catered to a younger generation than it seems to now. I don't think that younger generation would have much liked the idea of the turtlenecks that are so well represented here.
This was also the first show where we saw an accumulation of well-known (or at least known) catwalk clompers - Arizona, Caroline, Sara, Frida, Fabiana, Patricia, Sigrid, Lisanne - all taking a turn or two for Max and Lubov. I think it not unlikely that these names will be popping up more than ever this season, particularly in New York with the afore mentioned absence of some of their contemporaries. Not that they need much help in the show booking department... On average, how many shows does Jac do a season now?
Things were looking positively gorgeous at Richard Chai's Love label, I have to say. I don't even care if it looks just like what he did last year or five years ago, I love Chai. He's always distinctly menswear inspired, but he manages to keep a sense of femininity that is there even when you think it's not. I rave about Alexander Wang all the time, and I've always felt there are similarities between the two, just with a difference in age or presence. Chai Love is the more mature version of the Wang girl. Wangs go to the rock shows on the Lower East Side, and their older sisters (the Loves) head down that way too sometimes, but after the Loves got their internships at some fashion magazine, they didn't have the time to do it so regularly. Their history informs their style, but it is cultured by a Parisian influence with time. At 27, she's still chill, she's just more presentable.
This season (as usual) Chai created a collection of tonal beauties, consisting of much dark and light gray, beige, and some hints of floral prints. There were no chunky wool sweaters to be fount here though; the word was for smooth and sleek layering that keeps you warm but maintains a slim figure.
Tadashi Shoji gave us 27 dresses. Well a few more than that. I don't doubt that we'll see one or two of them on the red carpet in the months to come. I do speculate on the originality in a few cases though... One of those was looking very Alberta Ferretti Spring 2011 (direct your eyes to your left), while another looked suspiciously like Lanvin Fall 2010. On the bright side, Julia Nobis is looking great this season, not just at Shoji, but at Chai as well.
Rachel Comey delivered more in the print department and some shoes that will surely satisfy her avid fans. Eva Minge brought more lace to the table, but added massive amounts of fur (and not just natural colours, but bright red as well) sparkles, and military to the mix. (Actually, that's something that's not happened much yet. Where are the epaulets? Where is that classic green and khaki?). The over the knee fur covered boots and outerwear were the highlight here for me. Or, they drew my eyes the most, anyway. Minge definitely took inspiration from her Eastern European origins here. And in some cases (like a floor-length, fur-trimmed coat) I was totally on board. 
Jad Ghandour focused on the waist, which was more likely than not, belted. The real story behind the Elie Saab protege's collection though, was the glamour he infused. Drawing inspiration from the 1940s, Ghandour's runway was the most glitzy we've seen in New York thus far, and sometimes that's a refreshing move. Don't be afraid to be a flamingo in a flock of pigeons, folks, it's not always too bad a thing. Another thing: after Ferretti and Missoni broke out the big floppy hats for spring, it's looking more and more like a necessary expense.
Oh Christian Siriano. If only you hadn't fallen victim to the instant fame of reality television, you might be less well-known, and perhaps better appreciated. And I mean this seriously. Siriano's talent is regrettably overshadowed by the publicity he gained through Project Runway. He's adequate, but he is hampered by the expectation that he'll be totally awesome because he won a contest. Had he built himself up from the ground, he would not be as (in)famous, and he'd perhaps be a bit more free to grow of his own accord instead of trying to prove that he deserves the title he has won. 
Photos courtesy of style.com, fashionologie.com, ladyandtheblog.com, fashionising.com
This season (as usual) Chai created a collection of tonal beauties, consisting of much dark and light gray, beige, and some hints of floral prints. There were no chunky wool sweaters to be fount here though; the word was for smooth and sleek layering that keeps you warm but maintains a slim figure.
As Vena Cava and Jenni Kayne harkened back to the nineties (sorry, no Union Jack dresses or platform sneakers included), Victor de Souza turned up the chic with lace and long gloves. Whitney Pozgay presented a collection allegedly inspired by Tavi Gevinson and Alfred Hitchcock movies at Whit, and the injection of colour into New York Fashion Week continued later at Luca Luca, where yellows, greens, reds, pinks, and blues reminded us of late summer passing into fall. Mara Hoffman's presentation brought boho back, but she included tassels. Top that, Nicole Richie.
Rachel Comey delivered more in the print department and some shoes that will surely satisfy her avid fans. Eva Minge brought more lace to the table, but added massive amounts of fur (and not just natural colours, but bright red as well) sparkles, and military to the mix. (Actually, that's something that's not happened much yet. Where are the epaulets? Where is that classic green and khaki?). The over the knee fur covered boots and outerwear were the highlight here for me. Or, they drew my eyes the most, anyway. Minge definitely took inspiration from her Eastern European origins here. And in some cases (like a floor-length, fur-trimmed coat) I was totally on board. 
Wayne Lee's collection oft employed the use of leather to add edge to clothes inspired by Renaissance era garb. Silks and draped jersey fabrics gave the collection a contrasting element of softness, resulting in a look that echoed this blogger's dearly beloved Rick Owens. Like Eva Minge, she also unleashed sudden fluorishes of bright red on a colour wheel otherwise consisting of black, white, and brown.
Jad Ghandour focused on the waist, which was more likely than not, belted. The real story behind the Elie Saab protege's collection though, was the glamour he infused. Drawing inspiration from the 1940s, Ghandour's runway was the most glitzy we've seen in New York thus far, and sometimes that's a refreshing move. Don't be afraid to be a flamingo in a flock of pigeons, folks, it's not always too bad a thing. Another thing: after Ferretti and Missoni broke out the big floppy hats for spring, it's looking more and more like a necessary expense.
Oh Christian Siriano. If only you hadn't fallen victim to the instant fame of reality television, you might be less well-known, and perhaps better appreciated. And I mean this seriously. Siriano's talent is regrettably overshadowed by the publicity he gained through Project Runway. He's adequate, but he is hampered by the expectation that he'll be totally awesome because he won a contest. Had he built himself up from the ground, he would not be as (in)famous, and he'd perhaps be a bit more free to grow of his own accord instead of trying to prove that he deserves the title he has won. 
This is still only his third showing in New York, so I don't think it's quite time to write him off. Maybe he'll bring it next season. For fall 2011 though, Siriano's collection was disconnected. Aside from a large quantity of black, there seemed to be very little cohesion between looks, and though he tried an edgier design early on, he had returned to his usual glamour by the midpoint of the show. I would urge Christian Siriano to take a bit of time to rebuild conceptually. In the past, he has shown ridiculously glam gowns that are great for the red carpet, but little else. Now he tries to incorporate other pieces that you can just wear, no Oscar nod required, and it still falls flat. I don't know. Maybe he'll grow out of it. Or into it. Better yet, maybe he'll take some notes from Irina Shabayeva, who seems to be a bit further down the right path.
Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford
Photos courtesy of style.com, fashionologie.com, ladyandtheblog.com, fashionising.com
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