Saturday at NYFW kicked off with the runway return of Johnson Hartig and his Libertine label, and though his partner in crime, Cindy Greene, was not to be found by his side, there was no shortage of support, with the sisters Rodarte and Thom Browne all in attendance. As for the clothes, against all the odds, Libertine Fall 2011 exceeded expectations. Combining 60s silhouettes a la Jackie O with all those pretty colours you might remember from that time when you experimented with LSD, Hartig didn't hesitate to bring back the fucked-with-vintage feel of the label, but updated it with the electric palette. Screen printed graphics were of course a must, but also present were metallic brocade and sequins to amp up the sparkle. Though not for the faint of heart, this collection will win Libertine at least a few new fans, and mayhap peak the interest of old critics. I hope you're proud of yourself Johnson Hartig. I most certainly am.
Edun is becoming a bit of a favorite for me lately, and Sharon Wauchob held my attention with her Fall 2011 collection. As we've seen with collections from Rachel Zoe and Rebecca Minkoff most strongly so far this season, street style is very popular (not that we need a reminder, what with the popularity of blogs like Stockholm and Copenhagen Street Style, The Sartorialist, and Models Off Duty). There seems a rush to capitalize on this fascination with what people are donning on the concrete runway, and Wauchob has succeeded in doing so here, by creating a collection of pieces that actually look ready to wear. Oh, and that trench coat that opened the show? I'm seriously considering including it as an alternative to one of my leather jackets next season. You know I'm smitten when.
A presentation at Binetti transported viewers to the lap of luxury in the Middle East, whether that be the wonders of Ancient Egypt, or the modern extravagance of the UAB (I'm thinking Abu Dhabi, in particular). Jill Stuart continued the overriding 70s trends (that we are surely becoming very accustomed to by now), but added some shine to her collection with metallic colours on various pieces. Biggest thing for me here was the literal take on "animal print". Top points for thinking outside the box. Meanwhile, menswear was the inspiration at United Bamboo, with outerwear being particularly strong from Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham. Despite the strong masculine influence on the collection though, the designers kept it feminine by being creative with cuts and draping.
When Karlie Kloss stepped out to open the Prabal Gurung show, I thought to myself "Well hello raw sex appeal, how kind of you to return. I've surprisingly missed you." But in all honesty. Where has all the sexiness gone? I'm being terribly hypocritical right now being more one for understated sexy than the knock-you-out-with-my-double-Ds, make-you-swoon-over-the-generous-amount-of-junk-in-my-trunk type of sexy. But if there's one thing I can say, it's more difficult to appreciate one without the other. So Karlie Kloss comes swaying down the runway with her hair all a muss, and her dress looking very Catherine Zeta-Jones circa Zorro, and I'm feeling like fashion week finally got a dose of precisely what it's been missing. Sure, I've lost track of how many times I've said "70s glamour," but nothing thus far has been so blatantly harlequin romance novel as this. I'm pleased to say that the Gurung included several other of these shoulder-baring, cleavage-revealing looks, even if they were distinctly outnumbered by more modest ones. It was about time we brought sexy back.
At Philosophy, Alberta Ferretti elected to dispense with the EXPLOSION OF COLOUR that was her Spring 2011 collection in favour of a calmer palette of pastels. All I could think was that she felt the retinas exposed to the seizure-inducing hues of last season needed a refractory period.
Elsewhere, ADAM overcame the inconvenient arson of the knit elements of his collection a few weeks ago to unveil his designs on Fall (knitwear included, courtesy of some last minute favours from fairy godmothers). Lippes drew inspiration from the aboriginal peoples of North America this season, which provided an interesting cohesion with his usual aesthetic.
Mandy Coon drew the focus away from her crazed creativity and directed it instead at her talent and appreciation of line. Vivianne Tam went back to her roots and worked things from the angle of the Chinese opera, while Kaelen looked instead to the west - the one that's wild, that is - for inspiration. Presenting at the Pace Gallery, Kimberly Ovitz continued to grow into her own, providing several sweater-dressing options, and reminded us of just how well she drapes fabrics. Hexa by Kuho had a clever little trick to start off, and proceeded with a collection that was significantly less structured than in the label's last two seasons (indeed, one might describe Fall 2011 as nigh structureless). I admit to being a little disappointed with the result after being quite enamoured with Fall 2010 and Spring 2011. Better luck next season, I suppose?
I was not to remain in this state for long though, because Alexander Wang was set to show next. And as seems to be his habit, the coolest kid in New York came up with the goods. I say habit, but I suppose that if we take into consideration his last two collections, they were not received too favourably in all circles. But I reckon the appeal of Fall 2011 cannot be denied. Setting out with the intent of taking the mickey out of indulgence, Wang's collection consisted of all those vices we allow ourselves in the world of fashion, but interpreted in such a way that forced the thought "This is ridiculous." The important thing though? That thought is followed by "... but totally awesome."
I mean, a boyfriend blazer fashioned of fur? Sounds fucked up, but it actually works. No doubt, we'll see Frida Gustavsson trekking about with it next fashion week, Jac Jagaciak and a Chloe bag on either arm. The potentially overlong silky tendrils trailing from those two and others are probably going to be hazardous for anyone on an escalator (or just walking, in general), but you know they're going to look mythic as they catch in the breeze of passing cars. Capes and ponchos were rendered rockified in black leather, and that coveted Chanel quilting was also added as an after thought.
The point is that Alexander Wang took the shit we want, turned it into something uncool, and then revamped it into something we can't wait to get our dainty, opal and diamond-clad talons on come autumn. The technical term for that is reinvention, if I'm not mistaken. But feel free to use your own descriptors for this. Totes brill? Yeah, I thought so.
Charlotte Ronson continued with her 90s theme from last season, but kept things cozy with cardis and oversized jumpers. She's also the first person to use olive green with the military look this season. What else was she first for? Booking my bff Irina Lazareanu for a Fall 2011 show. Well, in womenswear, anyway. Glad to see that lady back on runways, I've missed her quirks. Not to mention, the Penguin Situation is likely spiralling out of control with no news stations asking those three all-important questions.
At Band of Outsiders, Scott Sternberg brought us contrasting aesthetics of his Boy and Girl collections, with the former being along the lines of preppy-meets-camper and the latter being (predictably) more feminine. Jane Ibrahim at Maisonette 1977 brought an urban rocker sensibility to the fold, but what was most fascinating about her collection wear the shoes... Anyone know how comfy those beauteous things are? Erin Fetherston proved that it is folly to judge fashion by it's price tag, transitioning from her high priced original line to a more affordable (but not less chic) option. Harem pants sort of swung out of fashion when people realized the only person who could really pull them off was Sienna Miller, but that didn't stop Pierre Morisset from bringing them back in leather and denim at G-Star.
Parkas and combat boots-turned-heels were popular at Altuzarra this season, as the designer sought to meld feminine with utilitarian ideals. And let's be honest, parkas and combat boots are most useful in autumn and winter. The stilettos and silky gowns? Not so much, but we've got to fit the fair lady in there somewhere. It was really the outerwear that held the collection together, and you got the sense that the models were on their way to various events (e.g., the office, school, the Arctic Academy Awards) and had thrown their biggest, coziest coat over whatever they were wearing while they were in transit. Our Oscar nominees were worried that they wouldn't have the time to change out of their boots before hitting the red carpet, so they decided to go with their fluffy bejeweled heels instead. The point, I suppose, was that in winter, there is nothing for it: sometimes, it's just too cold to wear the sleekest wool coat (though, some of these were included as well). Sometimes, you just need to sacrifice that silhouette for a puffier one. Suck it up and take the parka, you'll at least be saved from threats of the hypothermic variety. It's almost as though the parka was assumed to be uncool, but useful. In Altuzarra's capable hands though, the parka is a wonder to behold. In particular, I've got my eyes fixed on the white ones given a walk by Caroline and Kasia. L O L O L O V E.
Daryl Kerrigan made her much anticipated return to the runway with a collection sure to impress fans and critics alike. The Irish designer took inspiration from the forest, which appeared in the colouration of her pieces, most literally in the tree-print that pervaded a number of covetable items, particularly the cape in her opening look. But before you complain about looking like a little woodland faerie (Though, on second thought, wouldn't we all love to join Sasha, Vlada, and Gemma in that exclusive category?) note that there's a city street look to the collection, with the inclusion of leather and suede leggings in black and tan, respectively. It was another instance of those designers who is a master in the field of street styling, though with a more natural pallet than those chosen by Minkoff and Zoe. Really loving the cropped shearling vest and the Rick Owens-esque draped leather jacket in olive. Welcome back to a label that has been missed!
In the final show of the day at Toni Francesc, the inspiration of nature took a mythical turn, with the designer specifically envisioning the life of a phoenix from death in ashes to resurrection. This was especially to be noted in the story told by the colours, which progressed from stony browns and grays to orange and gold.
Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford
Photos courtesy of style.com,
