Happy Valentine's Day

I found this a moment ago while browsing about, and I thought I'd share it in case you lot hadn't yet seen it. Besides, I reckon you appreciate the well wishes of 41 models over me anyway. But for those who feel otherwise... Happy Valentine's Day from Gill Ford! Unfortunately, we don't know each other well enough for me to bestow upon you Ferrero Rocher chocolates, so you'll have to settle for virtual hugs and kisses and much love.

Peace, love, and floating,

Gill Ford

Am I The Only Sour Cherry In Your Fruit Stand?

So on Thursday, we began the first full day of runway shows with Nicholas K, who was incidentally, a favorite of mine last season. Noted for her draping of sleek jersey fabrics, MASSIVE hoods (And honestly, how many times do you find yourself wishing the hood on your jacket or hoodie was a little bigger? Especially on those days when it's raining and you're trying your best to keep your hair covered, but the hood inevitably creeps back, leaving an exposed inch or two? Yup, it happens to me all the time. Really. It rains a lot over here.), and punky, nomadic style, Nicholas Kunz left me impressed last season... I maintain a particular fondness for the way she pairs her grays and pale blues.

For fall, it is much of the same from the designer, just a little darker, heavier, and more covered up than what she brought us in September. The hoods are still there, but they are lined in furs; the little sweater shorts have been elongated and tucked into woolen socks; and the aviator lenses have been appropriately swapped from blue to brown (You bet your ass I wear my aviators in the winter. I wear my aviators all year round. Why? Because the sun still exists when it's cold. And I make them look downright delectable, what can I say.). So, yet again, Kunz has me hook, line, and sinker in terms of shit that I want to wear. Well, except for the waist-tied shirts (a little too lumberjack-meets-mechanic for yours truly) and the velvet pants. Even my bff Alexander Wang couldn't convert me over to that movement when he did it last year.  

From Nicholas K we moved on to presentations at Porter Grey (who presented some wonderfully constructed outerwear) Steven Alan (with a collection of what I suppose was 70s American Ivy League de rigueur) followed by BCBGMAXAZRIA, who took inspiration from the same chronological period, but in what is the fast becoming trademark minimalist style of the label. Waistlines and hemlines were both dropped fairly low, with skirts and dresses never shorter than the knees (indeed, they were often longer).  Again, we saw the use of basic colours: black and white, of course, but also our primaries in blue, mustard yellow, and cherry red. I thought it was an interesting point made by Meenal Mistry that BCBG seems to be aging in its style. I noted yesterday how many brands are trying to design clothing for the younger generation, but the concept of a label "growing up" wasn't one I had thought of. It certainly seems to be true in the case of BCBG though, which has in the past catered to a younger generation than it seems to now. I don't think that younger generation would have much liked the idea of the turtlenecks that are so well represented here.

This was also the first show where we saw an accumulation of well-known (or at least known) catwalk clompers - Arizona, Caroline, Sara, Frida, Fabiana, Patricia, Sigrid, Lisanne - all taking a turn or two for Max and Lubov. I think it not unlikely that these names will be popping up more than ever this season, particularly in New York with the afore mentioned absence of some of their contemporaries. Not that they need much help in the show booking department... On average, how many shows does Jac do a season now?

 

 

Things were looking positively gorgeous at Richard Chai's Love label, I have to say. I don't even care if it looks just like what he did last year or five years ago, I love Chai. He's always distinctly menswear inspired, but he manages to keep a sense of femininity that is there even when you think it's not. I rave about Alexander Wang all the time, and I've always felt there are similarities between the two, just with a difference in age or presence. Chai Love is the more mature version of the Wang girl. Wangs go to the rock shows on the Lower East Side, and their older sisters (the Loves) head down that way too sometimes, but after the Loves got their internships at some fashion magazine, they didn't have the time to do it so regularly. Their history informs their style, but it is cultured by a Parisian influence with time. At 27, she's still chill, she's just more presentable.

This season (as usual) Chai created a collection of tonal beauties, consisting of much dark and light gray, beige, and some hints of floral prints. There were no chunky wool sweaters to be fount here though; the word was for smooth and sleek layering that keeps you warm but maintains a slim figure.

As Vena Cava and Jenni Kayne harkened back to the nineties (sorry, no Union Jack dresses or platform sneakers included), Victor de Souza turned up the chic with lace and long gloves. Whitney Pozgay presented a collection allegedly inspired by Tavi Gevinson and Alfred Hitchcock movies at Whit, and the injection of colour into New York Fashion Week continued later at Luca Luca, where yellows, greens, reds, pinks, and blues reminded us of late summer passing into fall. Mara Hoffman's presentation brought boho back, but she included tassels. Top that, Nicole Richie.

Tadashi Shoji gave us 27 dresses. Well a few more than that. I don't doubt that we'll see one or two of them on the red carpet in the months to come. I do speculate on the originality in a few cases though... One of those was looking very Alberta Ferretti Spring 2011 (direct your eyes to your left), while another looked suspiciously like Lanvin Fall 2010. On the bright side, Julia Nobis is looking great this season, not just at Shoji, but at Chai as well.

Rachel Comey delivered more in the print department and some shoes that will surely satisfy her avid fans. Eva Minge brought more lace to the table, but added massive amounts of fur (and not just natural colours, but bright red as well) sparkles, and military to the mix. (Actually, that's something that's not happened much yet. Where are the epaulets? Where is that classic green and khaki?). The over the knee fur covered boots and outerwear were the highlight here for me. Or, they drew my eyes the most, anyway. Minge definitely took inspiration from her Eastern European origins here. And in some cases (like a floor-length, fur-trimmed coat) I was totally on board. 

Wayne Lee's collection oft employed the use of leather to add edge to clothes inspired by Renaissance era garb. Silks and draped jersey fabrics gave the collection a contrasting element of softness, resulting in a look that echoed this blogger's dearly beloved Rick Owens. Like Eva Minge, she also unleashed sudden fluorishes of bright red on a colour wheel otherwise consisting of black, white, and brown.

Jad Ghandour focused on the waist, which was more likely than not, belted. The real story behind the Elie Saab protege's collection though, was the glamour he infused. Drawing inspiration from the 1940s, Ghandour's runway was the most glitzy we've seen in New York thus far, and sometimes that's a refreshing move. Don't be afraid to be a flamingo in a flock of pigeons, folks, it's not always too bad a thing. Another thing: after Ferretti and Missoni broke out the big floppy hats for spring, it's looking more and more like a necessary expense.

Oh Christian Siriano. If only you hadn't fallen victim to the instant fame of reality television, you might be less well-known, and perhaps better appreciated. And I mean this seriously. Siriano's talent is regrettably overshadowed by the publicity he gained through Project Runway. He's adequate, but he is hampered by the expectation that he'll be totally awesome because he won a contest. Had he built himself up from the ground, he would not be as (in)famous, and he'd perhaps be a bit more free to grow of his own accord instead of trying to prove that he deserves the title he has won. 

This is still only his third showing in New York, so I don't think it's quite time to write him off. Maybe he'll bring it next season. For fall 2011 though, Siriano's collection was disconnected. Aside from a large quantity of black, there seemed to be very little cohesion between looks, and though he tried an edgier design early on, he had returned to his usual glamour by the midpoint of the show. I would urge Christian Siriano to take a bit of time to rebuild conceptually. In the past, he has shown ridiculously glam gowns that are great for the red carpet, but little else. Now he tries to incorporate other pieces that you can just wear, no Oscar nod required, and it still falls flat. I don't know. Maybe he'll grow out of it. Or into it. Better yet, maybe he'll take some notes from Irina Shabayeva, who seems to be a bit further down the right path.

 

Peace, love, and floating,

Gill Ford

Photos courtesy of style.com, fashionologie.com, ladyandtheblog.com, fashionising.com

So You Think I'm A Tough Kid? Is That What You Heard?

Alright folks, here is the line up for today's shows. Wang is obviously a big draw for me, but I'm also interested in how Hexa by Kuho, Edun, and Altuzarra will shape up this season. There are a few names here that I'm not overly familiar with, which is exciting as well. When was the last time Libertine did a show, by the way?

Anyhow, I'll have Thursday's review up by this evening (other duties are regrettably pulling me away from my computer for a chunk of the day), and I'll do my best to get Friday's done as well. Hope you're all enjoying the arrival of the weekend, have yourselves an excellent day!

9:00 AM General Idea
10:00 AM Libertine
10:00 AM Edun
10:30 AM Binetti
11:00 AM Jill Stuart
11:00 AM United Bamboo
12:00 PM Prabal Gurung
1:00 PM Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
2:00 PM Adam
2:30 PM Mandy Coon
3:00 PM Vivienne Tam
3:00 PM Kaelen
3:00 PM Kimberly Ovitz
3:00 PM Patrick Ervell
4:00 PM Hexa by Kuho
4:00 PM Mik Cire
5:00 PM Alexander Wang
6:00 PM Charlotte Ronson
6:00 PM Band of Outsiders
6:30 PM Maisonette 1977
7:00 PM Erin Fetherston
7:00 PM G-Star Raw
8:00 PM Altuzarra
8:00 PM Odyn Vovk
9:00 PM Daryl K
9:00 PM Toni Francesc


Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

Eleanor, Put Those Boots Back On And Run

Here's the schedule for today pretty people; there are probably a few other shows kicking around in the back streets, but at present I haven't the time to seek them out. If I find pictures, they will be included in the report. If not... well, they won't be. Looking forward to what Rag & Bone has in store, but today has a few labels I could say the same about. Who are you excited for not so Swedes?

9:00 AM Ruffian
9:30 AM Tess Giberson
10:00 AM Peter Som
11:00 AM Perry Ellis
11:00 AM Jeremy Laing
12:00 PM Farah Angsana
12:00 PM Nahm
1:00 PM Jason Wu
1:30 PM Norman Ambrose
2:00 PM Costello Tagliapietra
2:00 PM Rebecca Taylor
3:00 PM Rebecca Minkoff
4:00 PM Doo.Ri
5:00 PM Rag & Bone
6:00 PM Nicole Miller
6:00 PM Richard Chai/Original Penguin
6:30 PM Joy Cioci
7:00 PM Cynthia Rowley
7:00 PM Robert Geller
7:00 PM Sally La Pointe
8:00 PM Academy of Art University
8:00 PM Three as Four
9:00 PM Venexiana
9:00 PM Siki Im


Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

Ermine Furs Adorn The Imperious

Fashion week in New York began early with Rachel Zoe's presentation of her Fall/Winter 2011 collection on Tuesday. It was a much anticipated debut for the much acclaimed celebrity stylist, whose fashion sense has been the envy of eyes on the red carpet and off, whether it's Mischa Barton under the clothes, or Zoe herself.

I don't know if one would say I "died" over this collection, but there were some pieces that I certainly wouldn't bash. Generally speaking, I'd say that Zoe is sticking to what she's good at here, which is styling. And you know what? I'm okay with that. That is what people want from her, after all. I doubt she's the next McQueen, but creating little collections like this will be a great extension to her career and a treat for fans of it.

Wednesday saw collections from Zac Posen's Z Spoke, Willow, Gary Graham, St. John, M. Patmos, and Organic by John Patrick. I was a little surprised by the change in Z Spoke from last season; it seemed quite a change from the eye-popping colours we saw for spring to the borderline gothic collection Posen turned out for fall. No doubt, fall collections are rarely as colourful as their spring counterparts, but I was expecting a bit of a youthful flamboyance, which seemed to be where the brand was set to head last season. So I suppose we can give Posen points for the element of surprise.

It was a different surprise that my attention was drawn to though, being that Posen appears to have simply recycled what he made for his main label's pre-fall 2011 collection. There are some differences (Z Spoke doesn't include fur pieces, for example), but the collections look a little too similar for me. The even the hair and makeup on the models seem very much alike (indeed, he seems to have used many of the same models as well!). I'm all for a brand forming a sense of continuity, but it seems like Z Spoke is producing half-priced Zac Posen clothes? Perhaps I'm just looking for an excuse to rag on Posen though... I can't say I've ever died for his clothes either.

Nice to see you though, Coco. It's always a pleasure.

Willow's looks for autumn were a bit more sleek and clean than those shown in September. Colours were more pared down in cohesion with our fall expectations, but I had a definite feeling that this collection was more grown up in it's market than the spring looks. Collars were taller, and the fabrics and styling in general were a little less club and a little more comme il faut. But the edge of last season remains in the sequined finale pieces (that almost look like bronze and silver chain mail) and a prevalent motorcycle influence that is seen in quilted pants, shrunken perfectos, and other more feminine leather pieces (including a few mini dresses with patterned cutouts that recall a certain dress Sasha Pivovarova strutted for Christian Dior a year ago). Looking back at her collection from Fall/Winter 2010, however, the leap from dance floor to a more mature style is not as large as it seems in isoloation: a year ago, Willow's was looking a lot like she is now. The difference? She spent the summer at Studio 54.

At Gary Graham, models were decked in punky Joan Jett wigs, Converse sneakers, and a multitude of prints that appeared to hail from Spain and Peru, as did the draped woolen ponchos and sweaters. There were also silky skirts and minis that added a bit of geisha to this ecclectic culture clash. Topping it off with a few vintage metal band tees, some patterned leggings, and some canvas blazers, and I Graham's got all the hipsters swooning.

St. John was chic and ladylike, with luxurious furs, floor length skirts, and mid arm leather gloves. But when you say it like that, it almost makes you wonder if the market George Sharp was aiming for wasn't older than you might wish. Certainly, the brand has catered more the the wealthy WASPish population in the past, but the addition of what looked to me like a satin T by Alexander Wang (pocket and all) tucked into a slim trained black skirt showed that the fellow has an eye on the young folk as well. The sparkles weren't a bad touch either. The ladies who lunch will not be likely to head to the playground anytime soon, but the brand does appear to be shaving off a few years, which will likely open it up to a whole new sphere to influence; something we have seen a not a few companies doing in the last few years (for an excellent opinion on this, please refer to my colleague, Nat Blomqvist).

Things were cozy in furs and wool over at M. Patmos. Not that we would expect anything less from the co-founder of the dearly departed Lutz & Patmos. Rumour has it that one of those sweaters was painstakingly woven from a single thread by the way. If that's not dedication to one's craft, I bloody well don't know what is. 

John Patrick also showed on Wednesday with his label, Organic. Looking very Little House on the Prairie at times, Patrick didn't hesitate to add a little modernity to his extensive use of wool by toying with leather shorts and a belted trench. 

Overall, we're off to a good start in New York. Things really got going today (Thursday) as well, and I'll get around to those shows as soon as possible! Until then...

Peace, love, and floating,

Gill Ford

Photos courtesy of style.com