Fashion week in New York began early with Rachel Zoe's presentation of her Fall/Winter 2011 collection on Tuesday. It was a much anticipated debut for the much acclaimed celebrity stylist, whose fashion sense has been the envy of eyes on the red carpet and off, whether it's Mischa Barton under the clothes, or Zoe herself.
I don't know if one would say I "died" over this collection, but there were some pieces that I certainly wouldn't bash. Generally speaking, I'd say that Zoe is sticking to what she's good at here, which is styling. And you know what? I'm okay with that. That
is what people want from her, after all. I doubt she's the next McQueen, but creating little collections like this will be a great extension to her career and a treat for fans of it.
Wednesday saw collections from Zac Posen's Z Spoke, Willow, Gary Graham, St. John, M. Patmos, and Organic by John Patrick. I was a little surprised by the change in Z Spoke from last season; it seemed quite a change from the eye-popping colours we saw for spring to the borderline gothic collection Posen turned out for fall. No doubt, fall collections are rarely as colourful as their spring counterparts, but I was expecting a bit of a youthful flamboyance, which seemed to be where the brand was set to head last season. So I suppose we can give Posen points for the element of surprise.
It was a different surprise that my attention was drawn to though, being that Posen appears to have simply recycled what he made for his main label's pre-fall 2011 collection. There are some differences (Z Spoke doesn't include fur pieces, for example), but the collections look a little too similar for me. The even the hair and makeup on the models seem very much alike (indeed, he seems to have used many of the same models as well!). I'm all for a brand forming a sense of continuity, but it seems like Z Spoke is producing half-priced Zac Posen clothes? Perhaps I'm just looking for an excuse to rag on Posen though... I can't say I've ever died for his clothes either.
Nice to see you though, Coco. It's always a pleasure.
Willow's looks for autumn were a bit more sleek and clean than those shown in September. Colours were more pared down in cohesion with our fall expectations, but I had a definite feeling that this collection was more grown up in it's market than the spring looks. Collars were taller, and the fabrics and styling in general were a little less club and a little more comme il faut. But the edge of last season remains in the sequined finale pieces (that almost look like bronze and silver chain mail) and a prevalent motorcycle influence that is seen in quilted pants, shrunken perfectos, and other more feminine leather pieces (including a few mini dresses with patterned cutouts that recall a certain dress Sasha Pivovarova strutted for Christian Dior a year ago). Looking back at her collection from Fall/Winter 2010, however, the leap from dance floor to a more mature style is not as large as it seems in isoloation: a year ago, Willow's was looking a lot like she is now. The difference? She spent the summer at Studio 54.
At Gary Graham, models were decked in punky Joan Jett wigs, Converse sneakers, and a multitude of prints that appeared to hail from Spain and Peru, as did the draped woolen ponchos and sweaters. There were also silky skirts and minis that added a bit of geisha to this ecclectic culture clash. Topping it off with a few vintage metal band tees, some patterned leggings, and some canvas blazers, and I Graham's got all the hipsters swooning.
St. John was chic and ladylike, with luxurious furs, floor length skirts, and mid arm leather gloves. But when you say it like that, it almost makes you wonder if the market George Sharp was aiming for wasn't older than you might wish. Certainly, the brand has catered more the the wealthy WASPish population in the past, but the addition of what looked to me like a satin T by Alexander Wang (pocket and all) tucked into a slim trained black skirt showed that the fellow has an eye on the young folk as well. The sparkles weren't a bad touch either. The ladies who lunch will not be likely to head to the playground anytime soon, but the brand does appear to be shaving off a few years, which will likely open it up to a whole new sphere to influence; something we have seen a not a few companies doing in the last few years (for an excellent opinion on this,
please refer to my colleague, Nat Blomqvist).
Things were cozy in furs and wool over at M. Patmos. Not that we would expect anything less from the co-founder of the dearly departed Lutz & Patmos. Rumour has it that one of those sweaters was painstakingly woven from a single thread by the way. If that's not dedication to one's craft, I bloody well don't know what is.
John Patrick also showed on Wednesday with his label, Organic. Looking very Little House on the Prairie at times, Patrick didn't hesitate to add a little modernity to his extensive use of wool by toying with leather shorts and a belted trench.
Overall, we're off to a good start in New York. Things really got going today (Thursday) as well, and I'll get around to those shows as soon as possible! Until then...
Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford
Photos courtesy of style.com
