20 May 2011

The Tale of a Fairy: A Study in Frejanomics and the Catherine McNeil Effect

There is little else in the world of fashion that is more exciting than the Chanel Cruise collections, which are shown in wealth-laden/fantastic/breath-taking locations each year. But this event is not anticipated for the clothes so much as for the inevitable euphoria that comes in the form of Kaiser Karl's endeavours into the world of cinema. Last year, he took us to St Tropez with the gripping feature Remember Now. But for 2012, he has really given it his all, travelling down the coast to the Antibes for The Tale of a Fairy (Part 1, Part 2), starring a frighteningly high-strung Kristen McMenamy, a gorgeous-as-ever Anna Mouglalis, and a curiously talkative Freja Beha Erichsen. There's some pretty boys as well.

Karl's filmmaking skills have certainly improved since last season; in terms of the cinematography, it was very well done, and the acting wasn't quite as horrendously embarrassing and discomforting as it was last time around. Of course, nobody really payed any attention to any of that sort of thing. I mean, I would totes magotes have found those facets interesting. I might even have paid attention to the clothes if Anna's numerous admirers were ever wearing any. As it was, I was distracted by the same thing as everyone else, being the Sapphic shenanigans that completely dominated the final 25% of the film, during which 90% of Freja Beha's fans sighed with cathartic satisfaction.

I mean, as scandalous as it is, who really gives a shit that Kristen McMenamy is apparently carrying on with Baptiste Giabiconi, who is apparently her godson? Who cares about how 'pretty' the film looked, or how 'creative' the collection was, or how 'improved' Karl's cinematic skills are? Keeping in mind that we have not been enticed to look forward to this annual event in the expectation of anything Oscar worthy, one would think that the latter might have been noted more by all the highly educated, realistic, and critical viewers who turned up for the affair. As this was not the case, The Tale of a Fairy will be from hereafter referred to as The Time Where Freja and Anna were Pashing in the Lou. Or, for a multitude of others, The Time Where Freja Was Pashing Someone I Didn't Know, But Imagined was Me, in the Lou. 

I don't know what Chanel herself would have to say about all of this, but I have a feeling that it's not really a good sign when the clothes you have made are not just overshadowed, but entirely ignored because you've filmed FBE enjoying the taste of another girl's cherry chapstick. I read an article a few days ago that I found rather interesting, and actually quite relevant to this case here. Under the title "Skinny Again, Crystal Renn," David P Dykes (the irony is killing you all right now, I know) of fashionising.com muses over the famous anorexic-turned-plus-sized model's recent shoot for TUSH with Ellen von Unwerth, and the concept of the "celebrity model," pioneered by (who else) Kate Moss and attempted by various others, none of whom have managed similar success. He notes that "the Catherine McNeil effect" (a.k.a., when the celebrity of a model takes precedence over their work) is one that a number of models have unfortunately fallen victim to as models become ever more interesting to the public. Renn, who is perhaps the most well known plus sized model in fashion right now (seriously, Tyra, shut the fuck up), is remarkably un-plus sized in the shoot. I would particularly like to draw attention to the final part of the article:
[...] when you're a model your career is dependent on helping fashion houses sell clothing and accessories but their target market sees your photos and take in solely the shape of your body, there's a danger for your career.
In the same vein, I am wondering whether Freja's personal life may threaten the longevity of her career. There are many brands making money off of her at the moment (Georg Jensen and Harry Winston, to name a few), and I am curious to know what about her appeal appears to be driving the sales (assuming that there are no confounding variables in the correlations between her being the face of a brand and that brand's sales spikes). Does Freja sell because of her 'look', or does she sell because of the asterix note that reads "lesbian"?

I find it hard to believe that enough people are aware of the numerous rumours surrounding her personal life for there to be any reason but the former. She is (in)famous across the fashion industry and it's followers, but I think it would be ridiculous at this point to suppose that the majority of the general public even know what her name is, let alone what team she purportedly bats for, and that seems to be the best thing for a model. But with Freja's ever-rising popularity and notoriety, I fear that she may find herself falling victim to a similar fate as her rumoured ex (Side note: if this ends up happening, how incredibly tragic is the tale of McBeha? Someone tell Karl. Sure, a tragic film might get you a SAG award, but a tragic film about lesbians? Charlize Theron and Natalie Portman will be the first to attest that those ones win freaking Oscars.). What happens when people do know her name, and even more dauntingly, care enough to investigate what's going on behind the scenes? How will designers (other than Karl, obviously) react to a model who the public views increasingly as "the lesbian model"?

If the most recent pigeon-holing of Freja as "the androgynous model" is anything to go by, labels are hard to shake in an industry where models are meant to be blank canvasses. The boyish cut Freja sported for a couple of years resulted in a drop in her workload that rattled her loyal fanbase. But hair grows back, and once hers did, the pigeon-holing began to happen less frequently, to the point where she is now garnering more attention from designers with more feminine aesthetics. It is my hope that the growing publicity surrounding Freja and her sexuality does not become a limiting factor in what is an already stellar career, but as Dykes so eloquently indicated, fashion is not supposed to be about the model, but the clothes and the message of the brand that model is promoting. Freja is a good model to be sure, but is she good enough for designers to risk including the (sometimes dangerous) term "lesbian" in their list of attributes? I certainly don't care, but then, I am not a market scientist.

Cometh the Catherine, cometh the Freja.

Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

9 May 2011

Top HF Runway Model Ranks

I've added a new page to the Not So Swedish blog, which will house the new Top High Fashion Runway Model Ranks. I know very few people who understand the system behind the models.com rankings, so I decided to devise my own. The details of how points are awarded are all on that page now, along with the preliminary rankings after the first round has been completed. For anyone interested, the top 10 is presently:

  1. Julia Saner
  2. Mirte Mass
  3. Monika "Jac" Jagaciak
  4. Anja Rubik
  5. Ruby Aldridge
  6. Arizona Muse
  7. Daphne Groeneveld
  8. Freja Beha Erichsen
  9. Frida Gustavsson
  10. Kasia Struss
I stress that these ranks are based on runway ONLY. Points are earned on the basis of how many shows a model walks, the quality of those shows, and whether they open or close. Bonuses are also awarded for certain milestones.

At the present time, I have no intentions of incorporating print work (magazine covers, editorials, advertising campaigns, etc.) into this, as such a task would be enormous, and one that I am incapable of completing on my own. In the future, this may change, but for now, I hope this new system is helpful!

Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

29 April 2011

God Save The Queen, Long Live The McQueen

THE KISS   photo | Royal Wedding, Kate Middleton, Prince William

In case you didn't already know, the Royal Wedding of William and Kate was uh-maaaazing. He looked smashing in his Irish Guard uniform. She looked stunning in her Sarah Burton-designed Alexander McQueen gown. My fiancée, Prince Harry, looked very dashing himself in his Blues and Royals (You are all invited to our wedding by the way, which will take place promptly in 5-10 years. Kisses!). Pippa Middleton also turned heads in another dress by the house of McQueen. I might also add that Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II wore yellow. Very on trend Ma'am. On trend, indeed.

Elton and David were in attendance, as were others of the "Royal (but of a different sort than the Madges and the Middleton)" folk, among them, Posh and Becks, and Rowan Atkinson. Fashion was very much on the front lines (as one can always expect with these things) and this was all fascinating, but I was momentarily distracted by trees. You think I'm being sarcastic, but I'm actually not. There were TREES in the Abbey, actual living trees! And I have to say, it was one of the best decisions they made in the field of decorum, not just because of the addition of the colour (which played magnificently with the red, white, and gold) but also because they drew attention to the love that the couple has been so very characterized by for the duration of this courtship. It's a natural love, one that is real, not manufactured or forced like we saw with Charles and Diana. 

That love was on display today, as much as the two tried to restrain it with the royal expectancy of chaste and moral public behaviour (Which we might translate for the low-brow among you as "boring". This is, of course,  excepting the original People's Princess, Diana; Fergie's recent dramas; and anything Prince Harry has done, ever.). They couldn't help but smile broadly through out, which left me in quite a state, especially seeing as I had completely used all my tissues by the time Kate made it to the altar in the gorgeous McQueen dress. I couldn't even help myself, I got completely worked up and sentimental, sighing with the "I will"s, giggling at one of the choir boys' eyebrows dancing a jig as he sang, crinkling my brow in empathy as Lizzy shed a tear, and letting out a wail when the newly wedded Cambridges mounted their little carriage and Duchess Catherine  turned to her husband and said through her wide grin "I am so happy!" I'm not even going to get into the doubling up of the Royal Kiss at Buckingham Palace. Dehydration is simply far too close for comfort, and would be a stain on this wonderful day. 

Say what you want about the Royal Family, there are few in the world capable of inspiring such pure fantasy in the minds and hearts of people. I was not yet born when Charles and Diana married in 1981, and as a result, I missed out on one of the grandest moments in modern culture. As magical as the story of Lady Di was, I think the one that is now in the works for Kate Middleton is one that is even more of a bedtime story than hers. By virtue of being a commoner who marries into royalty, not because she had a title, or certain type of blood, but purely for love, Kate Middleton keeps our wildest dreams and imaginations alive. And if there was any lingering doubt, when she stepped out in that McQueen dress, she proved that those flights of fancy will always live on... Necause true fairytales? They are immortal. 

God save the Queen, and long live the McQueen.


Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

24 April 2011

Have A Hoppy Easter!

I sent you models for Valentine's Day, so I suppose I should continue the trend. And because I care so much, I've taken the time to rummage in about in the historical vaults (okay, not so historic, but not like... yesterday) for  mixed media. I have triumphantly emerged with a commercial, a fashion show, and an editorial. I bet you're all expecting Sasha Pivovarova in Louis Vuitton's bunny ears, right? If that's the case, you're completely wrong (though, Sasha offers a brief introduction to her own friend of the Leporidae variety in Les filles en Vogue). No, for the darling readers of my blog, I give you the Easter Bunny himself. Who may or may not also be HRH Alexander McQueen (may he rest in peace). Or Robert Buckley.

Kate Moss for Basement's "Dream Collection" by Martín Romanella (2011)

Alexander McQueen - Spring/Summer 2009

"Street Chic" by Peter Lindbergh
Harper's Bazaar US - March 2009
Catherine McNeil and Robert Buckley

 

Happy Easter my fashionable, Not-So-Swedish friends! May your scavenging be successful, and your eggs aplenty. Kate Moss's most certainly are.

Peace, love, and floating,
Gill Ford

Photos courtesy of tFS user jacobs

19 April 2011

On The Move


#justslayin RT @Ceejayklmnop: Catherine McNeil & Maryna Linchuk are now with @FordModels! Two more stunning girls on their roster.